I spotted this in an old Allegra McEvedy cookbook, and immediately sourced some red snapper to try it. It was lovely, but if you have trouble finding snapper it works equally well with the more easily-available salmon, sea bass or mackerel.
The sweet potato bubble and squeak is also handy to have in your back pocket when you’re short of ideas. I have specified making patties here, as does Allegra McEvedy, though you can cut out a little work by cooking the whole lot together in a big frying pan, making sure you get lots of charring to add big flavour and a little more texture.
RECIPE serves 4
800g orange-fleshed sweet potato (3 fairly large ones)
6 red chillies, whole
6 garlic cloves (3 peeled and roughly chopped, 3 crushed)
4 spring onions, finely sliced
1/4 of a savoy cabbage, cut into 1cm dice
50g fresh coriander, roughly chopped
2 tbsp plain flour
2 limes (one cut into 8 wedges, to serve)
4 red snapper fillets (or other oily fish fillets), skin on
Pre-heat the oven to 180C/ gas 4.
Keep the sweet potatoes whole, bake them in the oven for approximately 50 minutes until soft.
Meanwhile, wrap the whole chillies and 3 chopped garlic cloves in a tightly sealed envelope of baking foil. Pop the packet in the oven for 20 minutes along with the sweet potatoes.
Allow the chillies and garlic to cool slightly, then open the packet and remove the chilli stalks. Pop the garlic and chilli into a food processor and add half the coriander, the zest and juice of one lime and a little extra-virgin olive oil. Process until it forms a smooth paste, adding a little more oil if necessary to take it to a consistency that will drizzle easily over the fish.
When the baked sweet potatoes are cool enough to handle, slip off the skins and roughly mash the flesh with the spring onion, cabbage, the other half of the coriander, the remaining three garlic cloves (crushed) and the flour. Season generously and chill for 30 minutes. This is your bubble and squeak.
Form the bubble and squeak into 8 patties – I use crumpet rings for ease and convenience – and dust with a little flour. Heat 3 tbsp of oil in a large oven-proof frying pan until very hot and almost smoking, lay the patties in the pan (gently) and sizzle for a few minutes each side until well coloured. You may need to use two pans. Pop in a 180C oven for ten minutes to heat right through.
Alternatively, skip making the patties and instead cook all the bubble in a large frying pan over a very high heat. Allow the bottom to stick to the pan (lightly) before scraping off and mixing the charred bits back into the mix. No need to put this into the oven, just make sure it is hot all the way through.
To cook the fish: dry the fillets thoroughly using kitchen paper, then lightly oil the skin of the fish. Season both sides of the fillets then cook in a very hot, ridged griddle pan, skin side down, for around 4 minutes until the fish skin comes away from the pan without sticking. The skin will tell you when it is ready. Carefully flip the fillets over and flash for a further minute on the flesh side.
To serve: place the patties, or bubble, on a warmed plate and lay the fish on top. Drizzle with some of the chilli drizzle and serve alongside a simple green or rocket salad, sharpened with lemon or lime juice, with two lime wedges for each plate.